Jany Temime, costume designer on Spectre, collaborated with film director Sam Mendes and designer Tom Ford to produce many of the costumes and accessories in James Bond Spectre: The Auction on 18 February.
James Bond is the quintessential English gentleman: effortlessly smart, timelessly stylish, and perfectly tailored. In Spectre, the latest Bond blockbuster, the British spy played by Daniel Craig looks unforgettable, whether wearing a bespoke Day of the Dead costume in Mexico City or an elegant white tuxedo in Morocco.
Much of that is thanks to Spectre costume designer Jany Temime, who collaborated with film director Sam Mendes and fashion designer Tom Ford. Temime joined the Bond family with 2012’s Skyfall, and has also worked on Gravity, Hercules and Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. Here, she speaks to Rob Sharp about creating 007’s signature cool.
How did you adapt the costumes to the film’s stunts?
It was necessary for us to have a suit to follow the way Daniel runs. He’s a very physical actor and I wanted to keep the material very near the body and lightweight so you could feel the muscles, the dynamism.
We need many versions for every style of costume, so in other words a suit for Daniel and for each of his stuntmen, each of whom was a different size. Every suit was adapted for each stunt. We had longer sleeves when he had to be on a motorbike, and we made the legs stronger when he had to jump.
How did you adapt Bond’s cufflinks from Skyfall to Spectre?
In Skyfall we used his family crest because the film was about the family and his ancestors, whereas Spectre is about Bond himself. I had the 1930s in mind and I wanted something new so I found a pair of cufflinks in enamel, and then I thought that would be nice to put the JB initials on them. Tom Ford made them for us. We also chose sunglasses with a classical design from the Tom Ford collection.
This sale includes Bond’s white tuxedo, a major part of one of Bond’s most celebrated looks in Spectre. How did this look come about?
The Spectre white jacket was in silk because I wanted something very sensual. Bond is in Tangier, Morocco, so I went for a 1930s feel. There have been Bonds in white tuxedos before but this shape is new. We used Crockett & Jones shoes, which have the shape I want. The leather is perfect, and they fit Daniel perfectly.
How did your collaboration with fashion designer Tom Ford work, and did it change between Skyfall and Spectre?
Jany Temime: When I first started on Skyfall I met Tom Ford, and met with his collaborators regarding the style, the fabrics, the shapes, the colours — even the lapels and buttons. I designed the suits and these were then manufactured by Tom Ford, and he organised for tailors to come over from Italy to do the fittings. I also spoke with Sam and Daniel because we wanted a younger and more dynamic look for Bond. Tom Ford is a filmmaker himself so he understood my job.
One example of how we changed between the two films is I wanted a very special shirt collar for Skyfall, with a tab under it. I dropped this for Spectre, using a slightly bigger collar instead, just to update it.
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